Free · No account · One page

The smarter way to your next vehicle.

Search everywhere. Compare everything. Know what to negotiate before you buy.

✓ No account required ✓ Your garage stays in your browser ✓ Free NHTSA recall data

1
Search everywhereSet filters once, then open searches on 8 marketplaces with every filter each one supports already applied.
2
Pin & comparePaste listings into your garage and see the lowest price, mileage and fees highlighted side by side.
3
Inspect & negotiateCheck recalls by VIN and use days-on-lot as your leverage.
Step 2 — Verify the Vehicle

Decode the VIN, see recalls instantly

Both panels run on free U.S. government (NHTSA) data — decode a VIN on the left and open recall campaigns appear on the right, without leaving the page.

VIN — 17 characters 0 / 17

No letters I, O, or Q appear in a real VIN. Found on the dashboard, door jamb, and title.

Decoding…

Open recalls

Decode a VIN and any open recall campaigns for that year, make, and model will appear here — straight from NHTSA.
What the VIN can and cannot tell you The decoder reads what was built into the car at the factory — engine, trim, plant, model year. It knows nothing about what happened afterward, which is what a paid history report covers, and even that only shows what somebody actually reported. Read the VIN & history report guide →
Before you pay for a report Several VIN checks are completely free, including recalls above, flood screening, and theft records. Dealers often hand you a Carfax at no cost too. Do you really need to pay for a history report? →
Found a car online?

Add it to MatchMyVehicle.

Keep vehicles you find on different websites together and compare price, mileage, fees, and days listed in one garage.

⚡ Drag this to your bookmarks bar

Drag it up to your bookmarks bar once. From then on, when you are looking at any car listing, click it and MatchMyVehicle opens with that vehicle already filled in from the listing page's own published data. Check the numbers, add days listed if the site shows it, and save.

+ Add to MatchMyVehicle

This runs only in your own browser, only when you click it, on the page you're viewing — nothing is collected automatically.

Step 3 — Compare Across Sites

Your comparison garage

Paste a listing link to auto-fill what the link reveals, add the price and mileage you see, and MatchMyVehicle highlights the lowest price, lowest mileage, lowest known dealer fees, lowest price + fees, and longest-listed vehicle.

Price and mileage come from what you see on the listing — sites can't be read automatically without their permission. CarGurus shows "days at dealership" on every listing.

YearMakeModelSourcePriceDealer feesPrice + feesMileageDays listedLink
Garage is empty — add the first car you're considering.
Before You Sign

The lot-walk checklist

Before you visit

Body & frame

Test & negotiate

Paperwork

Want the full walk-around? This checklist is the short version you can tick off in the lot. The complete guide explains what each item actually tells you — why bad light hides bodywork, what mismatched tires say about the last owner, and what rust in the engine bay reveals about where the car spent its winters. Read the full inspection guide →
Why days-on-lot is your leverage A car sitting 60+ days costs the dealer money every day it doesn't sell. CarGurus prints "days at dealership" on every listing; for other sites, Google the VIN in quotes and check dates on the oldest results. Log it in the garage above and the longest-listed car gets highlighted, so you can see at a glance which one has been sitting the longest. Read the full days-on-lot guide →
Know Before You Sign

Dealer doc fee by state

Almost every dealer charges a documentation ("doc") fee on top of the sticker price — but the amount is all over the map, and some states cap it by law while others don't. Pick your state to see what's typical and whether there's a legal limit, so you know when a fee is out of line.

How to use this The doc fee is negotiable in practice even where it's not capped — if a dealer quotes a fee well above your state's typical range, that's a line to push back on, or a reason to fold it into your price + fees total in the garage above. Figures are general estimates that change over time and by dealer; always confirm the exact fee in writing before you sign. Read the full doc-fee guide →
Feedback

Report an issue or suggest a feature

If a marketplace link lands on the wrong results, a VIN will not decode, or a fee looks incorrect, reporting it is the fastest way it gets fixed. Suggestions for new tools and guides are welcome as well.

Takes about a minute. No account required.